The subjoined more modern views and descriptive letter-press are taken from a “Hastings and St. Leonards Guide” printed for, and published by T. B. Brett and a few other local booksellers.
PEVENSEY CASTLE
Is fourteen miles from Hastings, and may be reached by rail to Pevensey or by pleasant drive through St. Leonards and Bexhill. It consists of two distinct Features, an enclosure within an enclosure. The outer wall is Roman, the inner structure Mediæval. The walls average about twelve feet in thickness and are from twenty to thirty feet high. The material is flint, with sea sand, and is wonderfully perfect. The marks of the trowel are still visible. Many of the facing stones look as fresh as if they had been cut yesterday, after the wear and tear and exposure of nearly 2000 years. The mortar has the usual red tint of Roman work, an effect due to the pounded tiles mixed with it. This castle is considered one of the finest specimens of castellated Roman architecture. It has been besieged on several occasions, and many battles have been fought under the shadow of its walls. Permission to view the castle and grounds can be obtained from the keeper. There are no fees for admission, and it is not open on Sundays. The ordinary entrance is now on the north-east, through the garden of a cottage overlooking the church.
The Bay of Pevensey is a place famous in history, as that where Julius Cæsar landed, on both his invasions of Britain, B.C. 55 and 54. also where William the Conqueror landed previous to the battle of Hastings. Pevensey was once one of the chief seaports on the South coast. The sea is now nearly a mile from the castle, but it is supposed at one time it came up to the walls. The castle now belongs to the Duke of Devonshire. Within the grounds is a cannon of the time of Elizabeth, marked with the Rose and Crown, and the initials E.R. This is one of the two pieces of ordnance found here, without carriages, partly buried in the ground. The other was marked "W.P.," and was twelve feet long. It may fairly be presumed that these were the "ij demi-culverings of small value mentioned in the survey of the Sussex coast, made in 1587, in anticipation of the Spanish invasion as being in the castle of Pemsy." The first alone remains in position, the second having been removed to the Royal Artillery Museum, at Woolwich, in 1867.
It was here that the king embarked on his return to Normandy in 1067. William granted it to his half-brother of Moretaine, who is said to have built a Castle there. What he actually built is unknown, and the only existing masonry that can possibly be of his date is the broken superstructure of one, or perhaps two, Roman towers, and some rude repairs executed on the face of one of them. But whatever he did he held, and continued to hold, the Roman castle till his death, and he so held it against William Rufus in toss, being supported and encouraged by Bishop Odo of Bayeaux, and by the hope that Duke Robert would come to their relief from beyond the sea. This hope was fallacious. Rufus having stormed the mound of Tonbridge, laid siege to Pevensey. The garrison was brave, the Earl Bishop and his brother Count were skilful generals, he walls were high and strong, and for six weeks the king, at the head of a numerous army, assailed the place in vain. A tardy force sent by Duke Robert strove to land beneath the castle wall, but though the king's English soldiers were thus placed between the double attack from the castle and the ships, they overcame and, for the most part, slew the invaders.
About 1209 it fell into the hands of Prince Edward, and retained a while by he Crown. In 1309 it was in a ruinous condition, Edward 1. having declined o repair it. It must have been soon after this, judging from the evidence of he existing masonry, that the present additions were made, that is, either at he close of the thirteenth or very early in the fourteenth century. The towers are attributed to Edward II., in 1309.
Pevensey was included in the extensive grants made by Edward III. to John of Gaunt,
under whom, and the Duchy of Lancaster, the Pelhams became hereditary con- stables. In 1399 Lady Pelham distinguished herself by holding the castle for Richard 11. against the combined posse of the counties of Kent, Sussex, and Surrey. After this event it was mainly used as a state prison. Edmund, Duke of York, was con- fined here in 1405, and in his will bears testimony to his good treatment; and here also were imprisoned James 1. of Scotland in 1414, and in 1419 Joan of Navarre, the last queen of Henry IV. In 1650 the castle had a narrow escape from the claws of the Parliament, the materials having been sold for building purposes.
Soon after the Revolution, William III. granted Pevensey to the family Bentinck. In 1730 the Earl of Wilmington bought it, and in 1755 it descendeds to his son Charles, whose daughter married, in 1782, Lord George Augustus- Cavendish, Earl of Burlington. In this manner it was conveyed into the family of the present Duke of Devonshire.
Pevensey Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is situated to the east of the castle.
It is in the Early English style, with the tower and spire in an unusual position on the north of the church, nearly in mid-length of the nave and chancel. The tower containing three bells, hardly rises to the level of the roof; one of these bells is largely composed of silver. The interior of the church presents some features of interest, in particular the chancel arch with its rich foliated capitals, and the two lancet windows on the south side. The clerestory windows in the nave are placed in an unusual position- over the columns, and not over the apexes of the arches.
A monument and effigy of John Wheately, ob. 1616, should be noticed. The carved stone font was the work of a local amateur, A. Vidler. The original font, now in use, is in a small sacristy at the cast end of the north aisle. Observe the carved capital in the walls above. The present rector is the Rev. R. Sutton, M.A. Pevensey is said to have been the birthplace of Dr. Andrew Borde, a man of considerable learning, who combined the austerities of a monk with the low humour of a buffoon. His Boke of Knowledge has been reprinted as a literary curiosity. Borde classes Pevensy" among the "noble ports and havens" of England. The stream at Pevensey, which is called the Ashbourne, was navigable for small vessels as far as Pevensey Bridge till about 1700. North- east of the castle is a small inn, the Royal Oak, where refreshments can be had.
Three miles beyond Pevensey is situated the village of Wartling, approached by a shady lane up a hill. About one mile past Wartling is a gate on the left which gives access to Hurstmonceux domain. On entering, will soon come into view the towers of
HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE
which lies quite in a hollow. This is the next principal place of interest in this direction. It is one of the prettiest spots in the country, and the fine old red brick castle is one of the most interesting ruins. It was built in the reign of Henry VI., by Sir Roger de Fienes, a hero of Agincourt, who was treasurer to the Royal household. It cost £3,800 in its erection, is undoubtedly one of the finest of our castellated relics, and presents a very picturesque appearance with its rich green garment of ivy.
The route from Hastings to Hurstmonceux Castle is to St. Leonards, leave Bexhill on the left, pass through Sidley to Ninfield and Standard Hill, by Hazard's Green and Boreham Street, pass Windmill Hill, the seat of H. M. Curteis, Esq., in the parish of Wartling, and reach Hurstmonceux. On returning, leave Hurstmonceux Place on the right, to Gardner Street, then back to Lime Cross and past Windmill Hill on the opposite side, turning to the left of Mr. Curteis, passing Bellhurst to Ashburnham, and by Battle home to Hastings or St. Leonards.
West Ham – a west hamlet of Pevensey, hence its name – is not so much dovetailed with the premier Cinque Port as Pevensey itself; but the revenue for the maintenance of an obit in the church of Westham (from whatsoever source it might have been obtained) was given over to the Corporation of Hastings by means of the Elizabethan Charter. Another associative circumstance is that of the interment and monument in the Westham Church of John Thatcher, a correlative member of the Hastings Thatchers, whose pedigree will be found in Vol 1, chapter XLI of Historico-Biographies. It was stated at the meeting of the Archaeological Society heretofore described, that no papers would be read on that occasion; but the following short paper on the Westham Church was prepared by Mr. W. Durrant -
